11.10.2004
Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from 6:00am to 8:00am like clockwork
was my committement to the Orange Coast College Surf Team in 1981.
A full time student with part time work to pay for gas & school with my permanent oxidized Red Fiat Coupe with long hair with permanent surf racks mounted. The car had a funky starter and a tendency to just "not start". It became a kind of metaphysical thing after awhile because of the absolute propensity for the car to fail when I absolutely needed it to work the most! Like at a remote surf spot when you turn the key "no matter what you do" absolutely nothing happens. Wait 5 or 10 minutes and it would start up first click. New batteries, new starters, new anything wasn't in my vocabulary much due to my "deffered gratification" status as a student while I studied in school to try become something that I could afford a whole new car.
Surf permiated my life entirely, I shaped and painted surfboards in my garage.
Surf Team met at the south side of the river jetties in Newport Beach.
There are at least 40 people in the class kid you not!
First Day for class we met in the school auditorium where I was astonished by the number of people that applied the first day. I guessing low to be safe but there was at least 60 people Coach Laird Hayes wittled down the class by people whom followed exact matriculation produres. It was a frenzied day at got to a feverish pitch.
People were scrambling to get into class with a look of hopelessness on their faces.
Then finally the whistle blew loud as could be and brought the room to an echoed hush...
Alpha Male established his domain and all of the athletes fell into line
I don't know a single soul by my heart races with excitement
1/2 hour things settle down people leave whom didn't do their homework on matriculation
Final roll call
Brindley: "here" I say with a "who's your daddy" grin on my face
I remember thinking to myself;
"shit I'm in the class........I can't believe I will actually get credits for surfing"
some of the formalities are talked about, rules, regulations, where we meet,
good luck on parking but there on time, rules that will keep you in the class and rules that will kick your ass out of the class kinda stuff
Our guest speaker is Australian Surfer Peter Townsend, he breaks down the basic elements
of competition surfing, what the judges are looking for, waves rights and penalties according to the judges.
The fundamental and most basic concept of contest surfing.
The person furthest into the tube of the wave has right of way,
anyone in front of him is penalized.
A fall on take off forfeits your wave right.
Contact of any kind is penalized.
Outgoing surfers that henders a surfer on his/her wave is penalized.
These simple basic water rule fundamentals created an amazing amount of strategy and stealth
I would come to witness first hand in the water in the coming two years
was my committement to the Orange Coast College Surf Team in 1981.
A full time student with part time work to pay for gas & school with my permanent oxidized Red Fiat Coupe with long hair with permanent surf racks mounted. The car had a funky starter and a tendency to just "not start". It became a kind of metaphysical thing after awhile because of the absolute propensity for the car to fail when I absolutely needed it to work the most! Like at a remote surf spot when you turn the key "no matter what you do" absolutely nothing happens. Wait 5 or 10 minutes and it would start up first click. New batteries, new starters, new anything wasn't in my vocabulary much due to my "deffered gratification" status as a student while I studied in school to try become something that I could afford a whole new car.
Surf permiated my life entirely, I shaped and painted surfboards in my garage.
Surf Team met at the south side of the river jetties in Newport Beach.
There are at least 40 people in the class kid you not!
First Day for class we met in the school auditorium where I was astonished by the number of people that applied the first day. I guessing low to be safe but there was at least 60 people Coach Laird Hayes wittled down the class by people whom followed exact matriculation produres. It was a frenzied day at got to a feverish pitch.
People were scrambling to get into class with a look of hopelessness on their faces.
Then finally the whistle blew loud as could be and brought the room to an echoed hush...
Alpha Male established his domain and all of the athletes fell into line
I don't know a single soul by my heart races with excitement
1/2 hour things settle down people leave whom didn't do their homework on matriculation
Final roll call
Brindley: "here" I say with a "who's your daddy" grin on my face
I remember thinking to myself;
"shit I'm in the class........I can't believe I will actually get credits for surfing"
some of the formalities are talked about, rules, regulations, where we meet,
good luck on parking but there on time, rules that will keep you in the class and rules that will kick your ass out of the class kinda stuff
Our guest speaker is Australian Surfer Peter Townsend, he breaks down the basic elements
of competition surfing, what the judges are looking for, waves rights and penalties according to the judges.
The fundamental and most basic concept of contest surfing.
The person furthest into the tube of the wave has right of way,
anyone in front of him is penalized.
A fall on take off forfeits your wave right.
Contact of any kind is penalized.
Outgoing surfers that henders a surfer on his/her wave is penalized.
These simple basic water rule fundamentals created an amazing amount of strategy and stealth
I would come to witness first hand in the water in the coming two years
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