2.12.2004
last year I had the pleasure of a harmonic surfing convergence, similar to a celestrial harmonic convergence when all the planets line up, but this was all the surfers I knew lined up. It was an evening glass off session at san onofre, and everyone was there.
Somedays, especially when a swell hits and you've had a chance to surf it a few days, everything aligns for you. A kind of harmonic surf convergence. Your paddle arms are strong, your body is used to the water temp and your surf endurance keeps for hours. You're a lean mean surfing machine...or so you think! It was a fairly large southern swell with waves 5-7 feet in height and everyone was catching waves left and right, literally.
The waves at Sano do not break top to bottom for long and the break itself is commonly reffered to as California's Waikiki. The wave rolls over the rock bottom to set up long rides, left or right. Long rides mean long paddles and I was feeling strong this day. I'd paddle out to the line-up, see my neighbors NeoN, Rueben, Wynne & Bob yelling team Dolores (the street we live on). They'd take off on some large sets and I'd see them disappear toward the beach with epic surf grace and style. Look left, see some friends. Look right, see some more friends........look all around and see faces with smiles ........thank god I have my paddle arms because this is a very fun day and everyone is getting the longest rides of their lives........all the way to shore.......every ride.
I caught one of many long rides to shore, a classic right that seemed to go forever. A surfer gets that stoked feeling a after a good ride that helps drive him back out to the line up as fast as he can tolerate the paddle arm burn. They get that look on their face, like I can't paddle back out fast enough, too busy to talk. I too posses this look. As I'm paddling out and I hear this voice on my left...."Hey Brindley! good to see your actually surfing and not on the computer." I didn't recognize him at first because he was wet and I'm getting old so my vision lacks clarity but I did recognize his voice. Its Chris Schroeder, known as the Schroed's. I airbrushed a board for Neon a long time ago that Schroed's shaped and glassed, we stayed in touch after that through the computer via NeoN.
I paused for a minute and watched as Chris, on his short board, snatched an inside steep wave. I see him dissapear, then with lightning speed he raps an off the lip so hard and fast the spray doubled his stance.
Three times in a row he slashed the lip deliberately with a professional polish.......I had to turn around to make it under the approaching wave and I lost visual contact with him. Chris too had a surfing convergence and was fully shredding this day. I paddle out and see NeoN and say......"shit........first time I've seen Schroed's surf....that guy rips!"......NeoN shakes his head and replys...."welcome to my world!" We rock......we both laughed and caught the same wave in.
Somedays, especially when a swell hits and you've had a chance to surf it a few days, everything aligns for you. A kind of harmonic surf convergence. Your paddle arms are strong, your body is used to the water temp and your surf endurance keeps for hours. You're a lean mean surfing machine...or so you think! It was a fairly large southern swell with waves 5-7 feet in height and everyone was catching waves left and right, literally.
The waves at Sano do not break top to bottom for long and the break itself is commonly reffered to as California's Waikiki. The wave rolls over the rock bottom to set up long rides, left or right. Long rides mean long paddles and I was feeling strong this day. I'd paddle out to the line-up, see my neighbors NeoN, Rueben, Wynne & Bob yelling team Dolores (the street we live on). They'd take off on some large sets and I'd see them disappear toward the beach with epic surf grace and style. Look left, see some friends. Look right, see some more friends........look all around and see faces with smiles ........thank god I have my paddle arms because this is a very fun day and everyone is getting the longest rides of their lives........all the way to shore.......every ride.
I caught one of many long rides to shore, a classic right that seemed to go forever. A surfer gets that stoked feeling a after a good ride that helps drive him back out to the line up as fast as he can tolerate the paddle arm burn. They get that look on their face, like I can't paddle back out fast enough, too busy to talk. I too posses this look. As I'm paddling out and I hear this voice on my left...."Hey Brindley! good to see your actually surfing and not on the computer." I didn't recognize him at first because he was wet and I'm getting old so my vision lacks clarity but I did recognize his voice. Its Chris Schroeder, known as the Schroed's. I airbrushed a board for Neon a long time ago that Schroed's shaped and glassed, we stayed in touch after that through the computer via NeoN.
I paused for a minute and watched as Chris, on his short board, snatched an inside steep wave. I see him dissapear, then with lightning speed he raps an off the lip so hard and fast the spray doubled his stance.
Three times in a row he slashed the lip deliberately with a professional polish.......I had to turn around to make it under the approaching wave and I lost visual contact with him. Chris too had a surfing convergence and was fully shredding this day. I paddle out and see NeoN and say......"shit........first time I've seen Schroed's surf....that guy rips!"......NeoN shakes his head and replys...."welcome to my world!" We rock......we both laughed and caught the same wave in.
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