1.19.2004
I feel the wave push me down 3-4 feet and then I kick the board as hard as I can ..............I feel the force of my submerged contained bouyancy race me toward the surface, feeling the speed of the water on my face muscles.......I punch out the back of the wave and still drop 3-4 feet as the wave rolls past me........no time to rejoice my luck on making through the wave becuase here comes two more just as big.......
I made it through the next two fairly easily because of making through the first wave........I paddle out extra far to be safe and decide to just hang for awhile and catch my breath and size up the waves........I felt pretty cool sitting out there alone and thankful as hell I made it.....but reserved the rejoicing for later, when and if, my buddies made it outside with me........all of a sudden I hear this yell in the distance. The sargeant is dropping in on this perfectly shaped 8 footer and I see him get barreled going right.......I can see his shadow of his body being tubed as the back of the wave passes me.......I'm transfixed on his location to see if he makes it out alive.......he punches out and screams at the top of his lungs....we all saw it....we all began to cackle in unison from different locations.
This pumped us all up into a false sense of security for what would lie ahead.........This being the first time I had ever surfed waves this big...I timidly began to paddle into a wave that looked sort of safe.....
I would get right on the lip and with two or more hard paddles I could drop in....but the waves were sucking out and dropping 4-5 feet as the built up to 8 feet...earie seeing it for the first time...the waves were fast and hollow and made lots of explosion noises....so I would put on the breaks and stall for another wave I could muster my courage for!!!!!!
After a few stalls, I got pissed at pussing out and told myself that the next one no matter what I was going to drop into....even if I fully eat it...didn't care.....so here comes the next wave......I paddle like it was mine.....I took the two extra paddles over the top and I'm fully committed to what felt like the drop of death.......
Hands fully reaching to the sky.....a full freefall...saltwater in my eyes....a blind take off......I'm petrified
I made it through the next two fairly easily because of making through the first wave........I paddle out extra far to be safe and decide to just hang for awhile and catch my breath and size up the waves........I felt pretty cool sitting out there alone and thankful as hell I made it.....but reserved the rejoicing for later, when and if, my buddies made it outside with me........all of a sudden I hear this yell in the distance. The sargeant is dropping in on this perfectly shaped 8 footer and I see him get barreled going right.......I can see his shadow of his body being tubed as the back of the wave passes me.......I'm transfixed on his location to see if he makes it out alive.......he punches out and screams at the top of his lungs....we all saw it....we all began to cackle in unison from different locations.
This pumped us all up into a false sense of security for what would lie ahead.........This being the first time I had ever surfed waves this big...I timidly began to paddle into a wave that looked sort of safe.....
I would get right on the lip and with two or more hard paddles I could drop in....but the waves were sucking out and dropping 4-5 feet as the built up to 8 feet...earie seeing it for the first time...the waves were fast and hollow and made lots of explosion noises....so I would put on the breaks and stall for another wave I could muster my courage for!!!!!!
After a few stalls, I got pissed at pussing out and told myself that the next one no matter what I was going to drop into....even if I fully eat it...didn't care.....so here comes the next wave......I paddle like it was mine.....I took the two extra paddles over the top and I'm fully committed to what felt like the drop of death.......
Hands fully reaching to the sky.....a full freefall...saltwater in my eyes....a blind take off......I'm petrified
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